Mein römisches Pfingsten mit Rosen, Russicum und einem Kran

Montag, 28. Mai 2012 12:50
von Natalie Nordio

Pfingstsonntag in Rom, da stellt sich uns Wahl-Römern die Frage, wo wir die Herabkunft des Heiligen Geistes feiern wollen, Petersdom, Pantheon oder doch lieber in einem der kleinen versteckten Kirchlein im Stadtzentrum?

Meine Wahl hatte Don Antonio, der ehemalige Leiter des deutschen Pilgerzentrums, für mich getroffen und diese hieß Pantheon. Der „Erfinder“ des inzwischen legendären Rosenregens war hier bereits seit Wochen zu Gange, damit am großen Tag auch ja nichts schief lief. Da die Kirche zu Pfingsten immer fast aus den Nähten zu platzen droht, kam Don Antonio an diesem Tag die eine oder andere helfende Hand gerade recht. Kurzum machte ich mich am Sonntag früh morgens auf gen Pantheon. Rund zwei Stunden vor Beginn des Hochamtes kam ich an und fand schon einige hundert Leute vor, die auf den Einlass warteten – die ersten standen hier bereits ab sieben Uhr, berichtete mir einer der Kustoden mit einem leicht ungläubigen Kopfschütteln. Für die Kustoden ist das alles nichts Neues, die meisten sind bereits seit mehren Jahren hier und haben die Rosen schon oft aus dem „Auge“ regnen sehen.

Doch je näher der Beginn der Messe rückte, umso angespannter wurden alle, auch Don Antonio eilte mit zunehmend nervöseren Schritten durch die Halle. Meine Aufgabe bestand darin, ahnungslose Touristen – und man sollte es nicht glauben, die gibt es zuhauf – über das „spettacolo“ zu informieren. Zudem hatte ich dafür Sorgen zu tragen, dass die Delegation aus Don Antonios Heimatdorf Giffoni, die schon am Samstag – bepackt mit mehren hundert Kilo Rosenblättern – die Stadt erreicht hatte, ihren Platz fand. Die letzen verlorenen Schäflein las ich erst kurz vor Messbeginn auf und bugsierte sie gerade noch rechtzeitig durch die Massen auf ihre Plätze.  

Nach der Kommunion erreichte ich nur knapp wieder meinen Sitzplatz, als bereits die ersten roten Pünktchen in der Kuppel-Öffnung des Pantheons erschienen. Was danach passierte, muss man einfach mit eigenen Augen und Sinnen erleben. Es regnete und regnete Rosenblätter vom Himmel, die nach nur wenigen Minuten den gesamten Marmorfußboden wie mit einem roten Samtteppich überzogen und den gesamten Kirchenraum mit wohltuendem Duft erfüllten. Nach einem Augenblick des anmutigen Stillehaltens waren es als erste die Kinder, die sich nun nicht mehr auf ihren Stühlen hielten und versuchten, möglichst viele der Rosenblätter aus der Luft aufzufangen, um wenig später über den Boden zu kriechen und die Blüten in ihre Hosentaschen oder mitgebrachten Tüten zu stopfen.

Es wurde zunehmend voller, denn mit dem Ende der Messe stürmten die Touristenmassen von außen herein, um es den Kindern gleich zu tun und auch noch einige Rosenblätter als Souvenir zu ergattern. Ein Hinauskommen schien unmöglich. Doch einer der Kustoden erwies sich als mein Retter in der Not, schnappte mich am Arm und zog mich einmal quer durch das Innere Richtung Sakristei, um mich hier durch das Hintertürchen wohlbehalten hinaus zu schleusen.

Diesem ereignisreichen Morgen sollte mein Nachmittag in keiner Weise nachstehen. Ich hatte die große Ehre, beim silbernen Priesterjubiläum von Stephan Koster dabei zu sein – einem Pfarrer aus Bayern, der aber im byzantinischen Ritus geweiht ist und in der melkitischen Kirche den Titel des Archimandriten tragen darf. Die Messe hatte ich verpasst, aber ich schaffte es rechzeitig zum Mittagessen in das altehrwürdige Russicum, einem der Päpstlichen Kollegien Roms unter der Verwaltung der Gesellschaft Jesu. Da saß ich nun neben dem Chef vor russischem Kartoffelsalat mit Mayonnaise inmitten von Ordensbrüdern und Familienangehörigen des Jubilars. Besonders gefreut hat mich die Anwesenheit von Ulrich Nersinger, der unser Heft mit immer wieder Neuem und Wissenswertem so viel reicher macht. Und umso größer war dann meine Freunde, als sich, nach Kaffee und Apfelstrudel mit Sahne, auch noch ein kurzes Gespräch ergab, in dem wir uns über die erschreckenden Nachrichten aus dem Apostolischen Palast austauschten.

Am Abend machte ich mich noch auf ins MACRO, einem der römischen Museum für Zeitgenössische Kunst, um dort nach so viel Tradition noch ein wenig unkonventionelles Pfingsten zu erleben. Hier war für den Abend die Performance eines stadtbekannten Künstlers geplant. Eine Frau, als Kaninchen verkleidet, schwebte an einem Kran in 35 Meter Höhe über dem Publikum. Die ganze Chose hatte sich im Vorfeld sehr viel interessanter angehört als das Endergebnis.  

Doch nach einem so ereignisreichen Tag, empfand ich die abendliche Pleite als nicht besonders tragisch, werde mich aber zum nächsten Pfingstfest ausschließlich der Tradition verpflichten.

Auf bald Ihre Natalie Nordio                  


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